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Jungle Tarpon

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Paul Arden
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#1

Post by Paul Arden » Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:47 pm

Sounds like you had great fun out there Bernd! Really enjoyed your story!!!

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James9118
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#2

Post by James9118 » Thu Apr 12, 2018 2:15 am

Hi Bernd,

Great read - thanks.

I don't understand your tarpon leader with crimps - any chance of a drawing?

Cheers, James

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Bernd Ziesche
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#3

Post by Bernd Ziesche » Thu Apr 12, 2018 8:34 am

Thanks guys, I had a blast for sure!

James,
I used 130 lbs. FC Seaguar all the way from the fly to the fly line.
Instead of knots (getting too big with such a tough material) I used barrel crimps.
Due to a lack of any experience in using barrel crimps here I felt uncomfortable with the end of the FC coming out of the barrel crimp (directed back down to the fly where it came from) being cut off very short. For some stupid reason I thought that it maybe can be pulled out when cutting it really short. So I had 3mm over-stand. Now that over-stand of course runs into the tip but never out again...
After that fish I put thread around the over-stand and added Polyurethan to have a perfect smooth connection. That worked perfect - even better than cutting it totally short.
Shit happens. I learnt my lesson! :D
Regards
Bernd
http://www.first-cast.de
The first cast is always the best cast.

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#4

Post by John Finn » Thu Apr 12, 2018 10:39 am

Great story Bernd, really enjoyed it. Hope you got one landed eventually. MORE.....................John.

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#5

Post by guest » Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:37 pm

Great read Bernd, thank you
Bright but shite

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#6

Post by cormorant » Sun May 06, 2018 2:38 pm

Great story, wish I'd been there - except with the crap guide.

I've been waiting for someone better qualified than me to make helpful suggestions about your crimped 130lb straight through leader.

Leaving aside turnover, which probably isn't much of an issue with shortish heavy stiff leaders, how do you plan to break off when your line is deep in the mangrove - from casting or fish taking you there? Wih your 130lb straight through the weakest link is your flyline - or perhaps as you discovered your welded loop.
Pro tarpon guides don't generally recommend more than 80 lb bite tippet - which is easily knottable, and even if you're not concerned with IGFA standards you still need a weak link (in your leader not the anchor rope or flyline).

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#7

Post by Paul Arden » Sun May 06, 2018 5:16 pm

I've had to break 40lb Mono when snagged and it's a real effort. It's very hard to get a purchase on the line and you have to wrap it around your hands many times. If the problem is abrasion then braid is the way to go. You will never break 40lbs using the rod to fight, only a straightt line pull. The strongest fly lines cores are 80lbs I believe? Most being 35.

Cheers, Paul
It's an exploration; bring a flyrod.

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#8

Post by Nick » Sun May 06, 2018 6:45 pm

I would really question the use of straight 130 leader. For one, tarpon can be line shy. I have been in a situation where we were getting nothing but refusals using 80 bite tippet, but when I switched to 30 flourocarbon I got hits from almost every fish I cast to. Landed most of them too, as they were babies up to 25 pounds or so.

Secondly, what do you do when you get your line wrapped around your hand when a fish is taking line before it gets on the reel? You may differ, but I don’t think it’s worth losing a finger (or a foot!) for a tarpon. I'm also not too keen on being pulled overboard into who knows what!

I have a section in all my tarpon leaders that breaks at between 20 and 25 pounds.

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#9

Post by WJC » Thu May 10, 2018 2:12 am

Bernd,
Great article and pictures! I have been using Jinkai “K” size crimps for the fly loop on 60 lb Seaguar. They are much, much smaller and more discrete than any knot I can tie to a fly. And the loop will not only be exactly the size you want every time, but the strength, if properly crimped, will beat any knot tied in hand break tests - crimp vs knot. It’s also about 10 times faster for me to do and I can do it in the dark by feel. I will say that I ran through a whole lot of crimps test breaking the line to develop the feel for the pressure required – but they are dirt cheap.

Another advantage to crimps is that there is no wasted leader material when changing flies. You only have to cut off the part that’s too badly abraided from getting chewed on to be re-used.

For 80 lb Seaguar you need to go to “J” size crimps. That’s the heaviest straight leader I’ve used – and only for guys who really want to get one boatside for a picture. The reason for the heavier leader is not for the guy fishing but for the guy leadering the fish. It gives him a bit of an edge.

I’m guessing that in your case you stripped the coating off the end of the fly line and crimped the 50 lb mono core to the 130 lb leader. That’s certainly doable but requires a bigger crimp. You might want to furr that in with a whip finish coated with pliobond or something so it will slide through the guides easier. Make a sort of ramp so it doesn’t hang up.

I do a pretty complicated splice at that end, but most people wouldn’t bother with it. That is, splitting the fly line core in half, splitting the leader in half, cutting off the worst half of each, overlapping them and whip finishing them, then rounding them out with pliobond and coating with “Hard as Nails”. Then I slide either trolling braid or hollow spectra up the leader and up the fly line and whip finish each end, coat with pliobond and later coat that with “Hard as Nails”.

If you just butt the line and leader inside the hollow finger-trap over them, the first fish fight will stretch the overlaid hollow leaving a gap between fly line core and leader. Then one or both will poke out through the side and tear up the overlapping layer. The whip finish inside keeps the halves of leader and line core contained even after they stretch too.

This is mostly because I fish at night and the fly must be checked for weed strands after every cast. Using long leaders, it saves me far more hours a season than trying to grab an invisible fly on the end of a 16’ leader in a 20 mph wind. I can just strip it in and count the guides the connection slides through and then find the fly quickly and re-cast.

I no longer use the braided mono butt leader made by Gudbroode or Cortland any more because it tears up too easy going over and around coral, muscles, barnacles, crab trap ropes and channel marker steel. Dacron and spectra are much better that way. It also stretches a lot more.

Here’s a couple pics: You only need to cut about a quarter inch with the razor then just rip the rest down however far you want to.

Image

Here’s two separate lines that are done. The green is 60 lb trolling braid; the white is 200 lb Jerry Brown hollow. You can see the bulges in the two braids where the “halves” of line core and leader are overlapped. Good quality mono and fluoro will both rip easily for a very long ways.

Image

Cheers,
Jim

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Paul Arden
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#10

Post by Paul Arden » Thu May 10, 2018 4:01 am

That was very informative Jim - thanks :cool:
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