Loop the Loop

[FlyAlf]

Thanks for the informative article found at: http://www.sexyloops.com/index.php/ps/loop-the-loop

Some commnets to welded loop:

- Dont work to well on Rio T-300 (tried it at halibut fishing)
- Dont work to well for me on transparent intermediate lines with mono core. To high risk to damage the core.
- Have never lost leader during fishing, but have damaged the loop dring stress test (straightening the leader before starting fishing). The damage in all my cases (aprox 4 over 10 years) have been that line breaks just behind loop, same as Tracy&James test.
- The weak point is just behind loop. This part acts a a "hinge" during casts, causing degrading over time. Same for silk lines with loop made by needle knot of silk thread. For PVC lines that only lasts so long this is normally not a problem, but for more sturdy lines such as A i r f l o this might be a problem.

A note on Rio T-300 used for halibut fishing (aprox 8m): This line has little strenght. I had to dimmension the leader so that line didnt break. Even so I have broken a coulple of lines by hiting the bottom of sea and getting stuck.

[Paul Arden]

Hi James, out of curiosity which running line was it? I think I need to test my Lefty knot in Tyger wire to find out where that breaks. I thought 90%. It's a hell of a pull to break it.

Cheers, Paul

[easterncaster]

Hey James,

You wrote: 6) perhaps look to ‘cats-paw’ the loop-to-loop connection in order to spread the load. < by that, do you mean going through twice?

Do we need a photo?

Thanks,
Craig

[Nick]

Interesting stuff.

The only time I have had a welded loop fail, it was right there at the back end of the loop. It was a brand new factory made loop, so it's not just you that fucks up the welding process sometimes!

I am still a fan of braided loops. When I have had those fail it has been the actual loop that goes, probably due to abrasion, or the fly line breaks.

N.

[Lou Bruno]

If the failure is at the loop can we substitute a stronger material and weld perhaps...good article.

[James9118]

Paul - it's the running line from an old GT140 #7. I you want me to test some of your knots then just sent them over.

Craig - yes, as here:

[John Finn]

Great article James and quite reassuring for me as I always cut off welded loops and replace with braided loops which I also whip finish as well as superglue the leader end of the plastic sleeve.Think you are right about the main function of the sleeve is to stop the braid unraveling . I also like to whip the actual loop to make it as small as possible and tie on the butt end of the leader with whatever non bulky knot suits the diameter. Maybe this is all overkill but it has never failed and is more aerodynamic and streamlined than loop to loop. The only problem I have had is breakdown of the flyline just above the sleeve due to hinging over time.I think it's best to use only a tiny drip of superglue at the other end so that the flyline end remains flexible.
So if the flyline is the weak link there is no point in using tippet over 25 -30lb ? Are the heavy weight lines not stronger than this ?....................................John

[easterncaster]

Ahh... yes James, I do that often with the connection of back loop of heads to shooting line... works a charm.

[cormorant]

Sorry, I'm a bit late to this thread.

Very interesting stuff. The big reminder to me is if there's any sign of damage to the loop/line discard it. Pleased to have my faith in braided loops confirmed.

I use 50lb gudebrod braid (for #10 upwards) with a couple of tying thread whippings coated for protection, and with shrink tube (as James suggests) prevent the braid fraying. I generally manage to get a quarter inch of flyline inside the doubled braid, to prevent hinging.

What I don't understand is why braided loops are generally ignored by the expert writers and tarpon/blue-water guides or dismissed as not suitable for #10 upwards. Why is this?

Mike