Twisting rod sections to lock/unlock

[Paul Arden]

Hey chaps!

So do you twist to lock/unlock sections? How about with graphite vs cane? And what do you know about the history of this?!

Thanks,
Paul

[Viking Lars]

I never do it... It might be ridiculous, but I was taught early on that twisting the rod parts apart can also delaminate the blank. Whether it's true or not, I've never done it and never had a rod so stuck I couldn't take it apart (although it's been close a few times). I was also taught that not sticking the parts properly together will break the rod, which I know to be true, so I push them firmly together.

L

[Boisker]

I give a very slight twist as I initially pull them apart

[Graeme H]

^^^

I'm with him. Push together and a slight twist to part if required.

[carlz]

Twisting with Nickel Silver ferrules is bad. The mettle will gumb up, cause gaulling and the parts can get stuck.
You should have seen my friends cringe when I twisted a metal ferrule in front of them. I was politely corrected.

For Spiggot ferules, I usually don't. For tip over butt sections, I almost always give a bit of a twist 1/8 to 1/4 turn to lock it into place.

[Paul Arden]

What about in days gone by? I wrote something about 20 years ago that said that twisting rods came from cane days, but I’ve been told that this is a bad idea. To be honest I was surprised to find that it was me who had written it But I wonder where I had got the idea?

Incidentally to free stuck rods non-slip mats are perfect. And I like the two-person approach, each with a hand on both sections both pushing apart. It was recommended to me by Sage to twist stuck rods apart but I’ve broken rods this way in the past and always go for a straight pull now. For a really stuck rod ice can do the trick but generally two people and non-slip mats can free just about any joint. Erm apart from the rod I thew off the cliff.

Thanks, Paul

[Magnus]

Interesting discussion. On the cane rod and metal ferrule thing (bear in mind not all cane and wooden rods had ferrules, splices were widely used.) There were a few types of metal ferrule used for cane rods - some required twist, the sections were pushed together until a screw thingy at the top of the brass spigot engaged - turned about a half turn and locked the sections in place. the advantage of that type is they rarely stick - but never fit that tight.
For push spigots there were two main types - the sexiest had short polished male and female sides (nickel silver) and they stick by suction - more American builder I think. The rods I have from UK makers could have two tapered sides which sort of jam fit/friction fit (brass).
For push fit cane rods we were taught not to twist if possible - not to hold the cane is we had to twist across a joint. If the joint pulled apart, ie the cane pulled out of one side of the fitting, it was very easy to replace the joint - a fairly common repair. Using the Scotties I fished first, the idea was to keep the joint very slightly oiled - rub it on the back of your neck - so the joint was smooth and polished and came out easier.

Twisting glass and carbon rods, I'd speak to a blank maker and see what they say.

Magnus

[Magnus]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=htt ... AdAAAAABAX

Look for Hardy Lockfast joint - their version of the twist lock ferrule.

[Magnus]

Another question - but this links with old rod building too.

Do any of you tape the joints of your rods? For spey casting? AT one time B&W carbon double handers came with a roll of the tape they recommended. The idea was that twist during casting loosened the joints. Taping prevented that and reduced breakages. I rarely see it mentioned these days.

Magnus

[Will]

Hi Magnus

Up until this season I always taped DH rods. This season I didn't, however I did keep an eye on the joints and every now and again re-seated them if necessary. Didn't break anything*, but did have to do a fair bit of re-seating.

I've never taped my SH rods.

*Well I did break one rod, but that wasn't down to loose joints, just my ineptitude. :-)