rod accuracy

[WJC]

Hi Daniel,

My backcast haul is better and I think it does accelerate to an abrupt stop.

Cheers Paul

Think? THINK ????? (:>)

How about getting somebody with a a slow motion video camera or smart pad to take a video Paul? Then post it up so we'll all know. Yes?

Cheers,
Jim

[easterncaster]

IMHO: back cast hauls are almost always the better of the two, and that is because the movement to separate one's hands in wing span manner is an easier, feel good move, than with the forward haul, given the body's aspect when the haul occurs.

Craig

[Paul Arden]

That's possible Jim. The angle will have to be from above. Maybe I'll have Ashly video from a bridge

[Chris Korich]

Hey Chris, while I'm not a competition caster I do find this subject interesting and more importantly I can understand this thread which is not always the case up here. We all want to be more accurate , especially while sight fishing so I was wondering why you don't use glass in competition seeing as you train with it, and as a pure fishing tool, do you prefer it.
John

Hi John Finn, glad you’ve found this ‘rod accuracy’ thread interesting and understandable!

I believe you’ve stated a VERY common desire of most fly fishers, “We all want to be more accurate, especially while site fishing…”

In fact, that is the main benefit of playing FUN accuracy games and equipment tweaking… It improves your fundamental skills and enjoyment while fishing!

Regarding fiberglass, the primary reasons the McCormick’s and I don’t compete with it for the Trout Accuracy game, are the current rules and speed of the event.

With 16 scoring casts required in 5 minutes and the official fly being supplied, the game is similar to fishing a size 10-12 saturated dry or wet fly at a fairly speedy clip.

To make glass rods light enough to cast quickly and with precision, the outside rod diameter has to be designed larger (than graphite) with thin walls.

With unpredictable winds during a 5 minute competition round, a glass rod with more air resistance and a slightly heavier reel to balance it, can quickly become a disadvantage when there isn’t adequate time to pause, rest and let winds subside.

In comparison, the 8.5’ early graphite rods we’re using, in conjunction with our efficient casting strokes, kind of hit a ‘sweet spot’ in aerodynamics, action, stiffness, length and overall outfit weight.

For fishing and teaching fundamentals, I enjoy fiberglass rods immensely and recommend them regularly for 6wt lines on down. Especially like them for surface fishing and making roll, switch or spey casts in calm to moderate wind.

Chris

[Graeme H]

For fishing and teaching fundamentals, I enjoy fiberglass rods immensely and recommend them regularly for 6wt lines on down. Especially like them for surface fishing and making roll, switch or spey casts in calm to moderate wind.

Chris

That's interesting Chris. I also like them for teaching and for fishing in close in those lower weights. I think they are very good at getting people to control their loop formation, since hitting the power too early invariably leads to a tail. My 5wt 'glass was very important in my own progression, even though I rarely fish with it.

I'm also using 'glass on my 10wt builds now, but they are not the commercially available blanks that are out there. Those seem to want to "honour" the historic actions of granddad's 'glass, bending all the way to the grip on a 60' cast (the market gets what the market asks for ...). Mine have significantly faster tapers and are being rolled by CTS to my specifications. My point here is that even at line weights higher than 6, 'glass rods can be amazing tools that are fun to fish and cast.

Cheers,
Graeme

[Chris Korich]

Hi Chris

I’m a sorcerer, you know, and I can use the dark side of the Force to get some vision of what is taking place in the casting clubs of the Bay Area.

Merlin

Based on your many excellent contributions here and interesting articles in the public domain Merlin, a good sorcerer, no doubt. Next time you're near the Bay Area galaxy, please reach out using the light side of The Force for a casting club visit.

Remember...Once one start down the dark path, forever will it consume their destiny.

Chris

[Chris Korich]

That's interesting Chris. I also like them for teaching and for fishing in close in those lower weights. I think they are very good at getting people to control their loop formation, since hitting the power too early invariably leads to a tail. My 5wt 'glass was very important in my own progression, even though I rarely fish with it.

I'm also using 'glass on my 10wt builds now, but they are not the commercially available blanks that are out there. Those seem to want to "honour" the historic actions of granddad's 'glass, bending all the way to the grip on a 60' cast (the market gets what the market asks for ...). Mine have significantly faster tapers and are being rolled by CTS to my specifications. My point here is that even at line weights higher than 6, 'glass rods can be amazing tools that are fun to fish and cast.

Cheers,
Graeme

No doubt Graeme, The past and future of glass lightsabers, may be our only hope to teach the secret ways of the Jedi. Master Rajeff, myself and now a young girl and father, would not be as successful without it!

Chris

[Chris Korich]

Now the story about the weight of the reel: I did not invent the rule of “one to one and a half times the rod weight”, but I had some check of it made by a computing center. The author of this rule was Letcher Lambuth, a cane rod maker (twisted rods). I was quite puzzled when I read his book in the beginning of the eighties (I am 64 today). I could not see any other reason than a vibration node story, but I did not know how the vibration mode could take place. Today I have a better understanding. A rod can unload along its first “free-free” mode, especially if the caster does not hold it firmly and use some “stopless” cast. Then there are two nodes appearing briefly: one in the tip and one in the butt. The interesting one is the one in the butt for the reel issue. If one does not want to be disturbed by the possible rotation of the rod around that node, this node must be placed under the grip of the caster, somewhere on the handle, between the reel and the top of the handle. The node can move a little bit, it depends on the carry (the reel becomes lighter, the mass at tip increases, so the node moves upwards). It also means that the center of mass of the rod is above the butt node, somewhere above the handle. To check the location of the node, I asked a computing center to conduct some tests with a model rod and a reel of variable mass. That took place in 1985. This computing center was the one who recomputed the frame of the Statue of Liberty as it was revamped. The outcome of that study indicated that the approximation of Letcher Lambuth was quite good. Like many people I use a large arbor reel today, but my Hardy Lightweight is still my preferred option for trout rods, especially with the very light rods we can use today.

Merlin

I look forward to reviewing this book and learning more about your 1985 computer center studies on the reel weight and vibration nodes. Interesting and coherent when applying The Force to our casting and teachings.

Chris

[Chris Korich]

Thank you, Chris, for taking the time to answer the question that's been puzzling me since I read my first rod review fairly recently which rated different rods for rod accuracy at different distances...

So now I understand. A softer rod would give you more time to feel the line tension and consequently allow better control of line velocity to allow maximum air time for the conditions. That would make for a longer look at the direction and range to the tiny targets you shoot for.

From your information and that of other posters like John Waters, it will be fun to test out an old 8 1/2" RPL 6wt against a 9' TCR 5 wt at small targets scattered around the field.

Thanks again for your great descriptive posts in plain English.

My pleasure Jim! Please report back with what you discover from your fun accuracy test of the old 8.5' RPL 6wt against the 9' TCR 5wt. Do your best to choose the best line and reel weight for each, that optimizes rod bend and FEEL for you!

Chris

[John Waters]

Very interesting Daniel and Chis. Thank you. I'll have to play with reel weights.

Cheers, Paul

Or add ons Paul.

John