Fly line set up for tarpon

[Lou Bruno]

I use Sharkskin for my 8wt for winter time saltwater fishing, make sure you wear a glove.

Older books on fishing offer tidbits of information, things that have been forgotten over time.

Lou

[Paul Arden]

It's possible, I suppose, that the drawing is misleading and the "handling section" is still very thin. But I don't have experience with either line. The "Tarpon" line I use has a 60ft head and I don't have anything like the amount of time I would have were I fishing for Tarpon. I have 2 seconds for a "sitter".

Cheers, Paul

[Bernd Ziesche]

Being able to pick up and recast quickly is a priority for all flats fishing... assuming you are sight fishing. That rules shooting heads out, even full intermediate lines.
I think that is why it is so common to see clear intermediate heads with rear floating sections sold specifically as tarpon lines.

Well, I've got to agree 100% with those two statements. The recast is another reason why I prefer my stiff antique rods. I can pick way more line up with them than say an xi3 – especially if it is a sink tip.

I don't understand anything about the loop opening that they are talking about and how heavier line sinks faster in the air, opening the loop. I've never had that problem to my knowledge and I've cast some pretty hokie rigs.

Hi MC, hi Jim,
I don't understand why a shooting head would be ruled out when the same profile on a full line would match?
For both the sh and the full line I would want the head to be out first before shooting quickly to the fish. Most fully lines designed for tropical saltwater (typically sight fishing) are coming with short heads exactly like many fly fishermen design their shooting heads. Not much of a difference in my book.

Jim,
heavier lines (compared to lighter ones) have a different ratio between surface and mass. Going from a 5wt. line to an 8 wt. line means you increase the weight about let's say 10. The surface will be increased about some less than 10. That is why they shoot further and why they fall faster. Also increasing density (less surface for the same weight again) makes a line drop faster. For having a smooth almost straight (long) line in the air I would choose a low line class high floating one though.
A Spey/Roll casting line will have high mass near the tip section (in the D-loop). Otherwise you will not get enough momentum (max mass being accelerated) into the cast. Of course this means, that the belly will sink faster and may open the back part of the loop. In my exp. the loop front is more important and will stay tight.
Regards,
Bernd

[Paul Arden]

Making an accurate 80' shot is a hell of a lot easier if you've shot to 60' on your backcast.

[Mangrove Cuckoo]

Bernd

It's the pick up and recast problem.

[Bernd Ziesche]

Making an accurate 80' shot is a hell of a lot easier if you've shot to 60' on your backcast.

Bernd
It's the pick up and recast problem.

http://www.miterclamp.com/Images/Rio_quickshooter.jpg

Hey guys,
looking at the full line Tarpon taper above, I don't think I would shoot to 60' in the back cast before shooting to 80' in the forward cast. For recasting I would try to not get the head into the rod and instead pick the whole head up and shoot it directly or lay it down again. If I have to strip it in, I would get it out before shooting or just change direction on a short length.
If I cut the head of and connect it via loop to loop with the running line, it would be the same profile but now a shooting head. Don't think I would have any other/new trouble coming in then for recasting. Ok, if you add a thick loop to loop conection it may not run well thru the guides. That's in your design of course...

Pls. help me to understand what makes the recast problem for you?
Cheers
Bernd

[Mangrove Cuckoo]

Bernd,

By all means, if you think it will work give it a shot... and let us know how it goes!

Personally, I cannot imagine a scenario in Florida where I would want to use a shooting head for tarpon.

Maybe in the deep rivers of Central America, I can see where a sinking ST could be helpful, but fighting the fish with the running line laced through my fingers does not seem like it would be comfortable.

A lot depends on the situation you will have targetting the fish: clear, shallow, deeper, dirtier, etc. And the size of the fish.

In the Keys when sight fishing migration schools, which is classic, a popular line is a long belly tarpon taper with a clear intermediate tip.

Otherwise, in dirtier water or for slower fish just about any full length WF line will work as long as it presents the fly well. Often a sinking line is necessary.

I personally do not use quick shooter type lines.

[Bernd Ziesche]

Hi MC,
I think we may have a different understanding of what a shooting head is.
For me the only difference between a shooting head and a full line is, that the shooting head is connected via loop to loop to the shooting line. The shooting head is exactly the same as it is in the full line. Same for the shooting line, it's the same.
You can have a long sh exactly like the one you have in the classical long belly full Tarpon lines.
The one difference in shooting the fly to the fish though is, that with the sh you need to bring the whole head out first (or your loop to loop connection sticks in the rings). Otherwise with a full line you may get away to some degree with early shooting, but I would always want to have the full head aerialized first as well.

A lot of people think only of shooting heads to be short. But that imo is a missunderstanding. I think the same way like you do about short heads though. Full short headed fly lines or short shooting heads such for quick recasting on serious distance like needed in the keys as I remember. I too prefer longer ones.
What I don't like too much about shooting heads for Tarpon is the loop to loop connection having to run thru the guides when you have the fish close and he starts off again. With such big fish I prefer to have the line going as good as possible.
Regards
Bernd