PLEASE NOTE: In order to post on the Board you need to have registered. To register please email paul@sexyloops.com including your real name and username. Registration takes less than 24hrs, unless Paul is fishing deep in the jungle!

170 style

Moderators: Paul Arden, stesiik

User avatar
Lasse Karlsson
Posts: 5801
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:40 pm
Answers: 0
Location: There, and back again
Contact:

170 style

#31

Post by Lasse Karlsson »

Bernd, you're kidding right?

Cheers
Lasse
?
Your friendly neighbourhood flyslinger

Flycasting, so simple that instructors need to make it complicated since 1685

Got a Q++ at casting school, wearing shorts ;)
User avatar
Bernd Ziesche
Posts: 3436
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:01 pm
Answers: 0
Location: Whereever the fish are!
Contact:

170 style

#32

Post by Bernd Ziesche »

Lasse Karlsson wrote:Bernd, you're kidding right?
Hi Lasse,
which part? :cool:
Greets
Bernd
http://www.first-cast.de
The first cast is always the best cast.
User avatar
VGB
Posts: 6199
Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 12:04 pm
Answers: 0

170 style

#33

Post by VGB »

I think the 170 downward stop differs from the overhead cast in that it is less about transferring an impulsive force to the line and more about maximising the arc and dumping the excess energy from the large acceleration. I call it a downward stop because I think that your arm extension provides the stop for the loop formation and line speed generation.

If you look at the damping link I posted there are a number of ways of bringing the rod to a halt. Anywhere between 0 and 0.2 is characterised by large overshoots of the desired position and it takes a very long time to settle because it does not dump energy very well. I guess a stop of this nature would send some nice waves down the line.

Greater than 1 takes you to your desired position without overshoot, so no waves but you are cutting into the arc by the early deceleration that is taking energy out of the rod. 0.4 to 0.7 are the areas where we make the compromise between positional accuracy and controlling the energy dissipation. 0.7 is generally targetted by control engineers and designers as the critical damping point for servomechanical systems.

You don't have to take my word for it. Try a cast with a laser pen in your hand, you will see in your typical casting motion that there is usually a slight overshoot before you can stop the laser dot at the point you want.

regards

Vince
“Any intelligent fool can make things bigger, more complex, and more violent. It takes a touch of genius — and a lot of courage — to move in the opposite direction.” — Ernst F. Schumacher

https://www.sexyloops.com/index.php/ps/ ... f-coaching
User avatar
James9118
Posts: 1661
Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:59 pm
Answers: 0
Location: N.Wales

170 style

#34

Post by James9118 »

Incidentally, how much arc do people think is the minimum required to deliver a 120ft cast, for example with a MED and TCR#5 combo?
Ben_d
Posts: 429
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:32 pm
Answers: 0
Location: Aberdeenshire, Scotland

170 style

#35

Post by Ben_d »

James9118 wrote:Incidentally, how much arc do people think is the minimum required to deliver a 120ft cast, for example with a MED and TCR#5 combo?
A little more than is required to deliver it with a 910 Helios 2, in my hands at least!

Cheers

Ben
chris09
Posts: 100
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:00 pm
Answers: 0

170 style

#36

Post by chris09 »

The overshoot point is interesting.

It is the fear of doing this and breaking my rod that has prevented me giving the 170 a 'proper' try. I have seen it demonstrated with the rod rising back up automatically from the force of the cast. I fear that it would be easy to overshoot and leave a broken rod tip on or in the ground.

These Shakespeare Odyssey's aren't that cheap :whistle:
Ben_d
Posts: 429
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 7:32 pm
Answers: 0
Location: Aberdeenshire, Scotland

170 style

#37

Post by Ben_d »

Hi Chris,

With a light grip and using speed rather than brute force when rotating you should not damage the rod by hitting the ground. For me, light grip, speed, smoothness and being relaxed are the keys to getting this to work.

Cheers

Ben
User avatar
Lasse Karlsson
Posts: 5801
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:40 pm
Answers: 0
Location: There, and back again
Contact:

170 style

#38

Post by Lasse Karlsson »

It's damn hard to hit the ground with the rod...

App 70 degrees of wasted arc:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1IUaDgE ... QcJeyhNyPA

Cheers
Lasse
Your friendly neighbourhood flyslinger

Flycasting, so simple that instructors need to make it complicated since 1685

Got a Q++ at casting school, wearing shorts ;)
chris09
Posts: 100
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:00 pm
Answers: 0

170 style

#39

Post by chris09 »

Thanks Ben

The nights are starting to get lighter so I will get out soon and give your advice a try.

I've been practicing with a DH rod recently and although not related to the above scenario I have been using the lightest grip I've ever used with a very smooth and relaxed style. The results have been very encouraging.
chris09
Posts: 100
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:00 pm
Answers: 0

170 style

#40

Post by chris09 »

Lasse Karlsson wrote:It's damn hard to hit the ground with the rod...

App 70 degrees of wasted arc:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_1IUaDgE ... QcJeyhNyPA

Cheers
Lasse
I will let you know if that's true for me in due course.

Why is 70 degrees of the arc wasted. Are you saying the same results can be achieved with a reduced arc?
Post Reply

Return to “Flycasting”