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slipping anchor
Moderator: Lee Cummings
- Edwin Steffens
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: IJssel, Deventer
slipping anchor
Hello people,
Think there is enough said about this subject. Cant find it in this forum. Recently I have problems wiht a slipping anchor. Tried to slow down everything to prevent slipping. It helps a little bit but still keeps slipping. Tried to wait for it a little longer before entering the forward cast. This also helps a little more. Still slipping and I am not using to much power. It seems like the leader cant prevent a slip due to less gripping force or sumtin. Didnt try to add more lenght to the leader. Is it normal that is slipps a little or can sumting be done to prevent it? Seems like its not efficient in casting not to mention it can be dangerous to
Hope somebody has a sugestion that could help me.
Think there is enough said about this subject. Cant find it in this forum. Recently I have problems wiht a slipping anchor. Tried to slow down everything to prevent slipping. It helps a little bit but still keeps slipping. Tried to wait for it a little longer before entering the forward cast. This also helps a little more. Still slipping and I am not using to much power. It seems like the leader cant prevent a slip due to less gripping force or sumtin. Didnt try to add more lenght to the leader. Is it normal that is slipps a little or can sumting be done to prevent it? Seems like its not efficient in casting not to mention it can be dangerous to
Hope somebody has a sugestion that could help me.
- Paul Arden
- Site Admin
- Posts: 19789
- Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2013 11:20 am
- Location: Belum Rainforest
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slipping anchor
A longer leader is going to help, Edwin.
Is this a Switch/Single Spey? In which case how are you making the Sweep? Rising all the time or is there a flat spot. If I lift, flat, lift during the sweep, it is the flat that governs (or can govern) the length of the anchor. But there are other methods. But before I go into detail I'd better make sure we are discussing the same cast!
Cheers, Paul
Is this a Switch/Single Spey? In which case how are you making the Sweep? Rising all the time or is there a flat spot. If I lift, flat, lift during the sweep, it is the flat that governs (or can govern) the length of the anchor. But there are other methods. But before I go into detail I'd better make sure we are discussing the same cast!
Cheers, Paul
- Bernd Ziesche
- Posts: 3436
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 10:01 pm
- Location: Whereever the fish are!
- Contact:
slipping anchor
Hi Edwin,
first of all I think there isn't a cast in which the anchor (at some point while decreasing) doesn't start to slip to some degree.
The key is to avoid too much of the anchor starting to move backwords. Thus the anchor should not start slipping while it still is quite big/long.
Smooth start of the forward stroke is important here. Also position the main rotation of the rod near the end of the stroke is important.
This might be an interesting video:
https://vimeo.com/26829591
Cheers
Bernd
first of all I think there isn't a cast in which the anchor (at some point while decreasing) doesn't start to slip to some degree.
The key is to avoid too much of the anchor starting to move backwords. Thus the anchor should not start slipping while it still is quite big/long.
Smooth start of the forward stroke is important here. Also position the main rotation of the rod near the end of the stroke is important.
This might be an interesting video:
https://vimeo.com/26829591
Cheers
Bernd
http://www.first-cast.de
The first cast is always the best cast.
The first cast is always the best cast.
- Lee Cummings
- Posts: 364
- Joined: Tue Feb 19, 2013 12:23 pm
slipping anchor
Edwin
What rod length and head length of line are you using?
What rod length and head length of line are you using?
- Edwin Steffens
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: IJssel, Deventer
slipping anchor
Hey Guys, Thx for the Responses! I cast mainly with a Loop Cross S1 #7 DH 12 ft. and a GDC Head believe 27 gr. 34 ft. with a 17 ft. Salmon leader and ca. 2 ft. tip. Everything is floating. Also the setup I fish the most with for asp in my home river.
@ Paul, I am training on underhand casting. Was fishing van Goran Andersson and Hans Spinler last year and since then became realy enthousiastic with this style of DH casting. So in this style you fish with leaders of about 17 ft. depending on weight fly and resistance of running line and so on.
So the cast is the classic underhandcast according to Goran Lets not debate this pls :P. High lift then parallel to water (half circle with the underhand) then a very light stop and drift (tipping elbow forward) anker the leader and then forward cast with acceleration to a stop, again with the underhand. Vid of the cast a bit shabby but all the steps realy clear in the Gunter vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnc40QQ ... ax1V0ZLPRg
Last time I played a little with the amount of overhang and must say everything went smoother with about a foot to 2 ft overhang for a moderate cast of about 23 -25 m. Not so much slipping anchor. But still I see the fly moving towards me. This varies of a few cm. to ca. 1 m.
The effect seems just like in the vids of Bernd and Aitor shown on this subject on Vemeo. (thx Bernd idd your vid was helpfull have played it bk countless times to spot what is going on )
So according to Bernd slipping to some degree is part of a normal practise. Still if you cast in thight spots with bushes all around you. It can become a problem because the fly moves a bit towards you and, because I always forget to count this effect in, sometimes hangs in low branches
Lee think you question is answerd above also.
Also started playing with the placement of the anchor and my experience with this is that the further you place the anchor in front of you the less of this slipping will occur.
But the problem I have is if you want to cast lets say about 25-28 m you need a longer stroke and then the placement of the anchor is closer to you due to the backstop beeing further behind you. And because you put more energy in the cast the more slipping effect happens.
Well this is thus far my struggle and seems I have a balancing problem here
Hope you all have some things I can try
@ Paul, I am training on underhand casting. Was fishing van Goran Andersson and Hans Spinler last year and since then became realy enthousiastic with this style of DH casting. So in this style you fish with leaders of about 17 ft. depending on weight fly and resistance of running line and so on.
So the cast is the classic underhandcast according to Goran Lets not debate this pls :P. High lift then parallel to water (half circle with the underhand) then a very light stop and drift (tipping elbow forward) anker the leader and then forward cast with acceleration to a stop, again with the underhand. Vid of the cast a bit shabby but all the steps realy clear in the Gunter vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnc40QQ ... ax1V0ZLPRg
Last time I played a little with the amount of overhang and must say everything went smoother with about a foot to 2 ft overhang for a moderate cast of about 23 -25 m. Not so much slipping anchor. But still I see the fly moving towards me. This varies of a few cm. to ca. 1 m.
The effect seems just like in the vids of Bernd and Aitor shown on this subject on Vemeo. (thx Bernd idd your vid was helpfull have played it bk countless times to spot what is going on )
So according to Bernd slipping to some degree is part of a normal practise. Still if you cast in thight spots with bushes all around you. It can become a problem because the fly moves a bit towards you and, because I always forget to count this effect in, sometimes hangs in low branches
Lee think you question is answerd above also.
Also started playing with the placement of the anchor and my experience with this is that the further you place the anchor in front of you the less of this slipping will occur.
But the problem I have is if you want to cast lets say about 25-28 m you need a longer stroke and then the placement of the anchor is closer to you due to the backstop beeing further behind you. And because you put more energy in the cast the more slipping effect happens.
Well this is thus far my struggle and seems I have a balancing problem here
Hope you all have some things I can try
- Lasse Karlsson
- Posts: 5801
- Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2013 9:40 pm
- Location: There, and back again
- Contact:
slipping anchor
Hi Edwin
Try waiting a fraction longer before making your forward cast. That will give you a slightly longer anchor that sticks better.
Cheers
Lasse
Try waiting a fraction longer before making your forward cast. That will give you a slightly longer anchor that sticks better.
Cheers
Lasse
Your friendly neighbourhood flyslinger
Flycasting, so simple that instructors need to make it complicated since 1685
Got a Q++ at casting school, wearing shorts
Flycasting, so simple that instructors need to make it complicated since 1685
Got a Q++ at casting school, wearing shorts
- Edwin Steffens
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: IJssel, Deventer
slipping anchor
Thx Lasse I will try that
slipping anchor
Another thing that can reduce slippage is to release early (way before rsp). It seems to reduce tension in the d-loop at the final stages. I cast like that, suits especially mid bending rods and slightly heavy heads. I cast "thru" and release early. I think on tje old board one guy (Rasmus?) was using the same technique and calledit cast and release.
I'm here just for the chicks.
-Sakke
-Sakke
- Edwin Steffens
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: IJssel, Deventer
slipping anchor
hmm that sounds interesting will try it. Thx Sakke
-
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:43 am
- Location: Sandy, Deschutes, Clackamas, WA, OR
- Contact:
slipping anchor
Hey Edwin. Just catching up with sexyloops after a hiatus.
Refer to this link for the following comments: http://www.awholenuthalevel.com/blog/finding-the-right-spey-length-without-being-caught-in-a-maze-part-3-determining-minimum-length
The flatness of the anchor touching down makes a difference. Fig 2, the flat anchor, has a more aggressive grip than the inclined in Fig 3. Of course, you have to avoid Fig 6 or the D loop will be cupping/scooping water.
SMS is right on that if you have too much tension with a pre loaded rod tip, this will interfere with the anchors ability to fully and properly set. A hard back cast stop will be useful so that the D loop has a defined propagation before you break plane when going into the firing position.
I also like to get my rod tip to be stress free as much as possible while waiting for my anchor to set fully for floating lines and leaders that is notorious for poor anchor stick. This way, my ramp up to max tension takes longer, a delay that helps with the anchor not coming off prematurely.
Hope this helps.
Refer to this link for the following comments: http://www.awholenuthalevel.com/blog/finding-the-right-spey-length-without-being-caught-in-a-maze-part-3-determining-minimum-length
The flatness of the anchor touching down makes a difference. Fig 2, the flat anchor, has a more aggressive grip than the inclined in Fig 3. Of course, you have to avoid Fig 6 or the D loop will be cupping/scooping water.
SMS is right on that if you have too much tension with a pre loaded rod tip, this will interfere with the anchors ability to fully and properly set. A hard back cast stop will be useful so that the D loop has a defined propagation before you break plane when going into the firing position.
I also like to get my rod tip to be stress free as much as possible while waiting for my anchor to set fully for floating lines and leaders that is notorious for poor anchor stick. This way, my ramp up to max tension takes longer, a delay that helps with the anchor not coming off prematurely.
Hope this helps.
The water surface is often a gross facsimile of what the river bottom looks like. Our perception is often like reading that water guessing there is fish, a connection precluded further by depending on this gross facsimile. www.awholenuthalevel.com Casting Website