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Fly line hinging/cracking

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nicholasfmoore
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Fly line hinging/cracking

#1

Post by nicholasfmoore »

Hi all,

Had an interesting conversation with someone that contacted me today. The front of his Rio gold was cracking by the welded loop (i actually cannot stand welded loops on trout lines but that's another story). This was a brand new line. :cool:

My first thought was "it's got to be the leader". It was basically down to not having a heavy butt section/taper, so the line was hinging. A common thing in the UK is to fish a level section of tippet all the way through, around 8Lb on still waters, so i would imagine it's like casting the fly line without a leader at all.

I used to fish with braided loops many years ago with the plastic sleeve, however this always cracked by the sleeve within a few months, and i think it was down to the non flexible sleeve creating a focus point on the line when it unrolls (would you agree?) Even with a tapered leader!

If i have to use a braided loop, i whip it on now and use some Aquasure to seal the thread. It's very flexible and the cracking problem goes away.

However for my trout stuff i just needle knot the leader onto the fly line.

On a different note, who remembers cast connectors? :laugh:

All the best

Nick
Nick M

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Lasse Karlsson
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#2

Post by Lasse Karlsson »

All welded loops will crack at some point where it goes from two to one line, difference in flexibilty, just like you mention with the sleeves for the braided loops 🙂

Super easy fix, just weld it together again using heat shrink tube. Or cut them of and learn to tie a needleknot 😉

Cheers
Lasse
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#3

Post by nicholasfmoore »

Hi Lasse,
Or cut them of and learn to tie a needleknot 😉
Absolutely 😂 Do you use a needle knot Lasse on the MED? 😄

All the best

Nick
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#4

Post by Lasse Karlsson »

Of course, both ends!



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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#5

Post by Paul Arden »

I’m the same. If I need a loop - which I often do here by the way - then I strip to the core and whip a loop using strong tying thread and then superglue it. If I’m trout fishing I use needle knots.

Until they fall apart welded loops are pretty damned strong by the way. 23lb sinking line core will snap before the loop tears open.

Cheers, Paul
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#6

Post by Lasse Karlsson »

Paul Arden wrote: Tue Jan 21, 2020 6:07 am I’m the same. If I need a loop - which I often do here by the way - then I strip to the core and whip a loop using strong tying thread and then superglue it. If I’m trout fishing I use needle knots.


I'd stear clear of using the superglue on a whipping on a loop 😳 if needed to glue, a flexible glue would be my choice. Pulling the core into itself and under and then out through the coating, and then welding the coating around the tag end is my prefered method, no whipping and no glue. 😉 This is for the back end of a line, in front I'd like a bit stiffer loop, and either weld or use a short piece of mono, either a needle knot and a perfectionloop or a loop Albright knot.


Until they fall apart welded loops are pretty damned strong by the way. 23lb sinking line core will snap before the loop tears open.

Cheers, Paul
Absolutly, had a bunch of comments after the article published on SL about it, most where in disbelief that the weld would be stronger than the core...

Cheers
Lasse
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#7

Post by Paul Arden »

Needle/nail knots can slip for me here. Even 5 or more turns. Never had a problem in the Salt. But the fights are quite brutal. In fact it was because I had nail knots slip that I went to reinforced loops. I’m certain I could hang a 10KG weight off my Snakehead leaders. I’ve measured pulls at over 23lbs on the spring balance.

Whipping/glue works fine. I use two or three short lengths of whipping. The glue seems to seep into the thread. It’s a very small connection that I use on 6 and 4WTs for the Gourami leaders. Force in the fight is much less with Gourami however and the hooks straighten at around 9lbs.

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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#8

Post by Lasse Karlsson »

Yeah, I know superglue tend to seep into the thread, most superglues turn brittle in water though, and that I would like to avoid on a connection 😉

You had a proper needleknot slip 😳 nail I can understand though...

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Lasse
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#9

Post by Paul Arden »

Can’t needle an 80lb butt section very easily, which is what J was using back then. But I have had the needle knot break too. Particularly after the core becomes frayed reducing the core breaking strain. What I want to break first is the Lefty Knot in 40lb [properly] knottable wire. Done properly that is the weak point.

Cheers, Paul
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#10

Post by nicholasfmoore »

Hi both,
Needle/nail knots can slip for me here. Even 5 or more turns. Never had a problem in the Salt. But the fights are quite brutal. In fact it was because I had nail knots slip that I went to reinforced loops. I’m certain I could hang a 10KG weight off my Snakehead leaders. I’ve measured pulls at over 23lbs on the spring balance.
Wow that's some force! :O

Do you guys use a permanent butt section on your smaller set ups? I've tended to favour needle knotting a rio tapered leader to the fly line :)

Speaking of superglue, i used to fish up north a lot on frozen still waters (and the river) and i noticed that when i used superglue to varnish the fly, the freezing cold water would curl up the hook! These were very strong hooks too. Has anyone else noticed this? 80lb butt section is very thick indeed! I struggle to tie on the rio leaders with sweaty hands :cool:

All the best

Nick
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