The Board

I haven't done it to my Makos, but it would be quite easy to put a small white mark on one of the arms of the drag knob to act as a proxy for numbers. You only really need to know if it's at (say) 12 o'clock or 3 o'clock.

Hi ......
I'll jump in here .......
Yes I bought the Mako 56 & 65 ..... both outstanding Pelagic Reels ......
But : because of a Family Crisis ....... had to sell : all my HT 6 & 8 & 10 .. plus my Makoks , plus lots of other reels ...
And , unfortunately . my Waldren Vice ....... no weepies ,please !
Times have improved...... Will replace my Mako 56 plus
Still got my Dannilson ..........Tom

I’ve sometimes put small pieces of coban wrap (or similar not branded) on some if the drag knob spokes. I use mine for tuna mostly and it is not finnesse stuff with thick leaders. So after hookup it is mostly full drag until the fish is ready to be boated and then it is quick large setting changes (to minimum when the leader or fish is grabbed to avoid rod breakages if the grab doesn’t hold abd the ffish goes berserk).

My experience with fighting fish (limited to fish under 30 lbs) has taught me to set the drag fairly light while fishing. Light enough so that when the fish takes and makes the initial run you can just let him run without fear of breaking the tippet. I’m thinking the drag would be set to somewhere under 6 lbs. (I’m typically using no more than 10 lb tippet) After the craziness wears off then you can tighten a bit. And even then you don’t tighten too much — better to palm the spool than to risk a break from a sudden surge. The only time you really need a strongish drag is when trying to land the fish — rod in one hand while reaching for the fish with the other.

Not from actual experience but from reading Andy Mill’s book about tarpon fishing he does the same thing. He talks a lot about using 16 lb test class tippet and setting the drag to around 10 lbs. I can understand that later in the fight when the fish is pretty well worn out it’s nice to have a strong drag — especially when pulling on a 100 lb fish to get him to the boat — but any of the high end reels have adequate drags for that. Maybe for tuna you need a lot of drag all the time — I don’t know anything about that and I don’t think that kind of fishing is in my future. I’m specifically looking for a reel for salt water flats fishing — tarpon and permit in southern waters, and maybe a big striper up north. So to my way of thinking (and I may be way off) the drag system would not be my number one consideration. In my book weight is a factor — you carry the thing around and cast with it way more than you actually fight fish with it.

As stupid as it sounds, looks matter. I’m a Star Trek fan but I don’t want a fly reel that looks like something Data would be using on the holodeck. Although I must say I really like the looks of Abel’s Andrea Larko painted reels … Not sure I’d be caught dead with one on a salmon river but in Key West I’d carry it with me when I went out at night.

In the final analysis I want something dependable — something that won’t break down a thousand miles away from home, something big and strong yet light and pretty…

For most inshore fish people waaaay over estimate their reel needs. With 12lb tippet 3 lbs of drag is a lot. Buying a reel that generates 10-25lbs of drag means a lot of unnecessary weight. And that weight changes how a fly rod feels when cast.

With BFT or YFT I tend to go on full drag pretty much immediately when I have the fish on the reel. Before that, but after sertting the hook, I just let line slide out without resistance - if you are putting tension with your hand the rod bend and line stretch coupled with the resistance changes from your hand/fingers make the line bounce all over. I’ve had my share of line going over the rod/stripping guide, hand, reel etc that I’ve stopped risking that. Nowadays I just use my thumb and index finger as an extra guide and watch the line coming clean from the deck.

Ok, back to the topic. Pretty much all mid to high reels are going to be absolutely fine with tarpon from boat. Seems like looks are your dictating factor and your eye is set on Litespeed. If you can get your hands on one, do so. And if you like it and if it is a shop, buy it there.

I’m an engineer and a dragaholic, so to me drag is the #1 (and the reason why my Danielsson L5W 8twelve, Mako 9600B, Vosseler DC4, Hardy Ultralite DD 8000, Sage 8000pro or Nautilus CCF-X2 10/12 are not with original configuration. All have some, different, tweaks in their drags). I want more drag and quicker adjustment than most (or almost all). In that regard Mako is above all others. But I do understand that it is not for all. In my eyes btw, the Charlton Signature reels pleases the eye the most, but Mako is a better reel by some margin. Best bargain on the market, at least in Europe, is Danielsson in my opinion. There are some drawbacks to my liking in them for SW (full cage that prohibits hard winching - that 99.99% of fishers never do, and quite wide spool).

Learn to maintain your reel. Meaning that learn to open it it, clean and lubricate necessary parts and dry it if water has gotten in.

10, 20, 50, 200 or 200ft waterproofness means nothing. They don’t test it with rotation, changing temperatures etc. Mako is the only reel inside which I haven’t found moisture.

The new Sage Thermo has a huge drag, and the drag knob is numbered and with clicks. Adjustments are easy.

Morsie wrote: ↑Mon Mar 28, 2022 8:06 am The new Sage Thermo has a huge drag, and the drag knob is numbered and with clicks. Adjustments are easy.

I own a Sage Spectrum Max 11/12 and it’s amazing. Very tight with zero slop. Super smooth and light for its size. The drag knob is numbered and is easily set to the desired tension. It’s hard for me to conceive of needing more drag. Great price point. If the Thermo is even better — it must be a really great reel.

Skol,

Ron

It's a monster Ron, far more robust than the Spectrum Max as well. I only have the small one and its rated as a 10-12 but you could comfortably fish it on a 16, so the big reel must be a giant.

Must be designed for off shore stuff. I can’t see how one would break the less robust Max on even a 100 lb tarpon… I don’t know about you but I don’t fish with leaders over 20 lb test. I’m sure the Max could handle 50 lbs of pull all day.