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Fly line hinging/cracking

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Mangrove Cuckoo
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#11

Post by Mangrove Cuckoo » Fri Jan 24, 2020 12:12 am

Instead of stripping and whipping I simply double back the flyline and make the loop by encircling both with a nail knot and 10# mono. A small drop of UV glue smooths the blunt tip so it passes up and down the guides easier.

It is nowhere as sexy as a needle knot or whipped loops, but it is the strongest loop I've come across. It has never failed, even for large tarpon.
"Technique is the proof of your seriousness"

Wallace Stevens

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Paul Arden
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#12

Post by Paul Arden » Fri Jan 24, 2020 2:54 am

I permanently 2.5 turn needle knot a tapered leader for trout fishing. No permanent butt section for me Jungle fishing (nowadays).

I also do something similar to Gary with my stripped to the core section being doubled back to the fly line and not to more stripped core. Sort of half flyline half core combination! I do need something that travels through the rings easily for fighting close to the boat with the tip pointing down. These moments always worry me; particularly when someone else is fishing my rod :laugh:

Cheers, Paul
It's an exploration; bring a flyrod.

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Jearley
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#13

Post by Jearley » Sat Jun 27, 2020 1:56 am

It seems the needle or nail knot leader connection to the fly line has better “presentation” when unrolling. I’ve had several welded loops rip using a 25lb. mono perfection loop connections. Would a heavier mono butt section help? Maybe I’m just rough on things.

Tangled
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#14

Post by Tangled » Sat Jun 27, 2020 7:11 am

I depends on what I'm fishing for

Welded loop to loop connection with 9’ of flat 4lb Maxima when fishing with 3 spiders for small wild trout. Short roll casts for means that turnover is not a problem.

Similar set of from drifting boat with 3 wet flies on 12' 6lb leader. Wind always behind Aids turnover.

Loop to loop for double hander for salmon. Fly Loop to polyleader loop, then polyleader loop to mono loop. Mono is always flat but high diameter. Generally quite short 9' and 3' for sinking line so no turnover problem

Needle knot with tapered leader for most other trout fishing - dry fly work, long leaders, buzzers etc

It's really dangerous using loop to loop with a long tapered leader. The high diameter butt of the tapered leader creates a big knot that jams in the top ring with a big fish on. Great way to lose the fish or snap the rod tip.

Mangrove Cuckoo
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#15

Post by Mangrove Cuckoo » Sat Jun 27, 2020 2:43 pm

Tangled wrote:
Sat Jun 27, 2020 7:11 am
It's really dangerous using loop to loop with a long tapered leader. The high diameter butt of the tapered leader creates a big knot that jams in the top ring with a big fish on. Great way to lose the fish or snap the rod tip.
Tangled,

While it doesn't seem right at first, the secret to smooth loop to loop connections with heavy butt sections is to tie a rather large loop in the butt section material.

Especially when using a perfection loop (which is my favorite), which tends to stand proud, a larger loop that has "legs" of at least 1.5 inches or longer, will flatten out when the loop in the flyine pulls on it.

It looks more like a section of double line than a loop when done correctly.

Sure, it clicks when passing through the guides, but it doesn't jam. Then again, I'm fishing 12# tippets. I would not use loop to loop for trout.
"Technique is the proof of your seriousness"

Wallace Stevens

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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#16

Post by Geenomad » Sun Jun 28, 2020 3:12 am

For light outfits polyleaders are a good option. Loop (to loop) up top and tippet ring down below. Durable, adaptable and not too sticky in the guides.

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Mark
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Jearley
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Joined: Sun Oct 13, 2019 6:02 am

Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#17

Post by Jearley » Sun Jun 28, 2020 5:18 pm

I’m willing to bet that my perfection loops are on the small side. I’ll try it again tying it substantially larger. Makes a lot of sense! I do like the idea of changing the entire leader out quickly with loop to loop, especially with using the new 8-weight for bass.

Tangled
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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#18

Post by Tangled » Sun Jun 28, 2020 5:41 pm

Mangrove Cuckoo wrote:
Sat Jun 27, 2020 2:43 pm
.

Sure, it clicks when passing through the guides, but it doesn't jam. Then again, I'm fishing 12# tippets. I would not use loop to loop for trout.
I can give you a particular example. I was fishing with a 9’ #5 weight from an anchored boat and had a longish tapered leader on, joined loop to loop. I hooked a 5lb+ brown trout. It ran me all over the lake but I got it to the side of the boat. Being sat down, the distance between fish and rod tip meant the long leader had to go through the top ring - and probably more - to get the fish close enough to net.

It went through ok but when the fish made that final dash for freedom at the net that they all seem to need to do, the leader knot jammed inside the top ring, it did that because it was under tension and hinging at a very sharp angle. Snapped the tippet instantly. So I learned that lesson.

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Re: Fly line hinging/cracking

#19

Post by Paul Arden » Mon Jun 29, 2020 12:14 am

Big problem for me too. I use 40 or 50lb leader for a) straight pull stopping and b) snags. As you can see here even with only a 10’ leader the twisted part is well inside the rings. (There is actually a fish on the end and I’m not just posing like this :p).
A53F9676-6B1C-4201-BE38-E8B28BD41CB5.jpeg
A53F9676-6B1C-4201-BE38-E8B28BD41CB5.jpeg (101.7 KiB) Viewed 103 times
Twisted leaders are pretty smooth in the rings and far less clunky than the perfection loop in 80lbs that I used to use (I know - could probably have just fished 40 and that would have been fine!). I agree with Gary that the bigger loop is better.

Cheers, Paul
It's an exploration; bring a flyrod.

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