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Pairing lines to rods

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Paul Arden
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#51

Post by Paul Arden »

Fantastic. I’ll drop you an email tomorrow Phil. I’ll grab info on lines too!

Thanks, Paul
It's an exploration; bring a flyrod.

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Mangrove Cuckoo
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#52

Post by Mangrove Cuckoo »

Paul, Phil,

I'll be happy to send it along, its just collecting dust here. Like most fishing things in my life, it was one of those, "You should have been here yesterday!" kinda things.

And Phil, since you have a background in golf, you are probably adept at maintenance on handles?

The rod has two butts, one graphite the other glass, but the cork grip on the graphite butt is loose and rotates freely. I was going to try to glue it but it has been a long time since I made a rod and don't want to screw it up. You are probably the better one to attempt it.
With appreciation and apologies to Ray Charles…

“If it wasn’t for AI, we wouldn’t have no I at all.”
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Paul Arden
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#53

Post by Paul Arden »

Let me ask Lee what he recommends there!
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#54

Post by Paul Arden »

Not sure there is an easy option for this. However for this sort of fishing you’ll want the glass butt anyway. It’s actually longer than the tube and was a stripped down Ugly Stik. Prototype 2 has a properly fitted glass section. We have a few different designs now for the grip too. Anyway you can have a go with this and and if you need a fibreglass butt with a longer cork grip I can have one sent over! Feel free to try to blow the rod up. It’s been used to lift 10KG weights off the floor so you’ll probably find it to be difficult :D But if you manage it then this will be very useful design information for us.

I have a guest who regularly visits me from Florida. I have in mind that when he next visits he can bring the rod so I can have it used on the Sails here. But I doubt I’ll see him again until quite probably next year.

Cheers, Paul
It's an exploration; bring a flyrod.

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Mangrove Cuckoo
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#55

Post by Mangrove Cuckoo »

Paul,

There is no stripping guide on the butt section. The only thing keeping the handle in place is the small metal winding check. That would have to be removed, which would likely mess up the aesthetics of the SL logo, but otherwise not cause any physical harm. The blank under the grip could then be covered with glue and the cork handle slipped back down.

Its not a hard fix. I may even still have some rod makers glue on the shelf, although it is pretty long in the tooth. Phil likely has glue of more recent vintage.

I did not want to proceed without your input.
With appreciation and apologies to Ray Charles…

“If it wasn’t for AI, we wouldn’t have no I at all.”
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Fla
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#56

Post by Fla »

I have successfully repaired loose handles using glue in a syringe. A glue thats expands when hardening like gorilla glue should work best.
Just as an idea for a quick and easy fix.

Cheers,
Flavio
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Paul Arden
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#57

Post by Paul Arden »

Absolutely no problem messing up the aesthetics of this rod! It’s a prototype and meant to be thrashed :D
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Phil Blackmar
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#58

Post by Phil Blackmar »

Mangrove Cuckoo wrote: Mon Feb 15, 2021 7:35 pm Paul,

There is no stripping guide on the butt section. The only thing keeping the handle in place is the small metal winding check. That would have to be removed, which would likely mess up the aesthetics of the SL logo, but otherwise not cause any physical harm. The blank under the grip could then be covered with glue and the cork handle slipped back down.

Its not a hard fix. I may even still have some rod makers glue on the shelf, although it is pretty long in the tooth. Phil likely has glue of more recent vintage.

I'm pretty good with golf clubs but it might be a good idea to let someone more experienced in rod building make the repair. My dad was an expert builder who made some of the prettiest whippings you've seen but he's no longer with us.

Thanks
Phil
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Paul Arden
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#59

Post by Paul Arden »

So there are two butts. One is a glass butt for Bluewater and the other is carbon for flats. For fish fighting under the boat the glass is the way to go. For shots there is actually surprisingly little difference. I wouldn’t worry about the cosmetics at all. My rods get a lot of abuse and this one is labelled up no4, so it’s par for the course? :)

You’ll probably have to cut the winding check away and I imagine that the cork will then slide off. A photo at this stage would be useful because this shouldn’t have happened of course! I can’t remember if it was rushed out or if it indicates a deeper problem.

In any case really don’t concern yourself over this. This is a rod that’s supposed to be hammered and I would like to see ten years of stress in one year of possible :D If you can rebuild it with bits of epoxy sticking out I would love this :cool: Maybe get a thumb print on there.

Thanks, Paul
It's an exploration; bring a flyrod.

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sms
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Re: Pairing lines to rods

#60

Post by sms »

Paul Arden wrote: Sun Feb 14, 2021 4:56 pmuntil we found out the US International courier charges :D
For shipments from US that are not sending straight to Europe (or don't have good corporate rates), I am using MyUS and it is great for rods as they are using rates based only weight and that means it is relatively ok cost.
Paul Arden wrote: Tue Feb 16, 2021 5:43 am So there are two butts. One is a glass butt for Bluewater and the other is carbon for flats. For fish fighting under the boat the glass is the way to go. For shots there is actually surprisingly little difference.
Ah, I remember you were so skeptical about this before you tried mine in the 2018 worlds. And you became a believer. :cool:
Of course, even glass cannot survive anything:
Paul Arden wrote: Tue Feb 16, 2021 5:43 am You’ll probably have to cut the winding check away and I imagine that the cork will then slide off. A photo at this stage would be useful because this shouldn’t have happened of course! I can’t remember if it was rushed out or if it indicates a deeper problem.

In any case really don’t concern yourself over this. This is a rod that’s supposed to be hammered and I would like to see ten years of stress in one year of possible :D If you can rebuild it with bits of epoxy sticking out I would love this :cool: Maybe get a thumb print on there.
Use Gorilla or other PUR glue. I use it on all of my rods and it beats the cr*p out of epoxy for all not too well fitted handles since it expands -> fills all the gaps and voids. It is stronger than cork and you get perfect coverage & contact on all surfaces. I am not happy with the handle material I have on my glass butt sections but I think I'll strip more trolling rods than change the handles I've glued since it should be less work just because the PUR sits so steadfast on the blank. The burl cork would obey knife, but the glue probably would need grinding.
The bad think about PUR is that you need to prevent it getting on the wrong parts (over the reel seat, on the blank in front of the handle). And if it happens, then you need to wipe it off before it sets as when it starts to set it is there and will stay there. And if you fiddle with too much moisture (moisture makes it expand more and it is what hardens it) you may crack your handle.

Tightly fitting individual cork rings are good with epoxy. But since going with PUR I only make the fits so that the ones meeting reel seat and the top one on the blank are tight fitting to prevent too much glue flow (I put some quick epoxy between the reel seat and the ring meeting it so that PUR should not have a way out from there).

Burkheimer uses PUR: https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/cont ... ormat=300w
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