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Does the longer translations with the wrist snap at the very end apply mostly to faster action rods, or is it something I can apply to my typical medium, medium\fast
Fishing actions? ( my preferred choice of action for fishing)

Sorry I meant to post this under just "flycasting"

It applies to all kinds of stick

Cheers
Lasse

Even the softest of sticks! I've heard differently when casting glass rods

clayed21085 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 23, 2019 4:06 pm Even the softest of sticks! I've heard differently when casting glass rods

Cool, I must be able to bend the laws of physics then

If you don't think its possible, it isn't....

Cheers
Lasse

I guess you answered my question then, I'll not contribute my casting flaws to rotating "too late" for the given rod action then, and focus on other parts of my casting stroke.

Yes it does, James, but but you really need to be smooth. Smoothness is important with fast rods too of course,

With a soft rod you might not want to hit it as hard, but late rotation is certainly key for distance and soft rods. I generally try to think bigger and more exaggerated with my movements.

Cheers, Paul

I'll keep that in mind thanks Paul.

Hi James,

I practice and fish a lot with soft (and stiff) rods. As Paul says - with soft rods you really need to be smooth. With a stiff rods I sometimes try to delay the the rotation for as long as possible. With soft rods I rarely do so. When casting up to say 25 meters there is simply no need to do so and I get better loops, more control, and less "dangle" by rotating more evenly through the stroke. The rotation of the rod by the wrist mostly comes in at the end of the stroke of course, but I do not try to first "drag" the rod along and then rotate it. Rotate smootly and evenly(?). Start slowly finish fast. There is a movie somewhere with Steve Rajeff talking about this - I will see if I can find it.

Cheers Thomas

As I was reviewing Paul's "Competition Casting for distance" video, I realized that the comments about a long drag and late rotation apply to casting glass at fishing distances. I believe that is because Competition Casting really loads the rod with the type of bend that can cause serious tip path issues. You have to account for all the issues that go along with it.

The wrist snap at the end applies.

The "smooth" recommendation is really two parts. First, it is really easy to apply too much power early in the cast and force a premature bend in the rod. Second, as you try to get more line speed, you need to take advantage of the whole stroke, so you can't just apply the power at the end. This applies to all casting, but is more noticeable with slower rods.

I believe this is one of the reasons that practicing with a slow rod helps. It gets you used to compensating for rod bend with slower casts and shorter distances.

The most common problem I see when people move to a softer rod is applying too much power early in the stroke and not being able to keep up with the required acceleration later in the stroke. I also believe, but haven't really investigated, that a major reason that people like glass rods (for the people that do like glass rods) is that they match there existing casting stroke. This stroke doesn't include the acceleration and jarring stop. It is the more the "traditional" 10-2 with less linear translation (drag) in the cast. These casters "Adjust the rod to the cast", which is fine until they want to get better.