jarmo,jarmo wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 2:59 pm
- Lift rod parallel to ground, so some line lifts up.
- Rotate very slowly, avoid "bending" the rod.
- Somewhere before perpendicular, rotate a bit faster (for some acceleration).
- At perpendicular, wrist snap, preferably preceded by stopping other movement (to help in turnover).
I know you did not ask my opinion, but i have a few things that you might want to add to your list above... (which I believe is pretty good)... just for kicks:
Before lifting parallel, reach forward during the last strip so you have more room to translate. The more line you need to put into the bc, the more you reach forward.
Between rotating slowly and "somewhere before perpendicular" translate you hand backwards to initiate some rod load. I concentrate on trying to feel this load lower and lower into the blank the longer the line I am lifting.
At the point right before you add your wrist snap, look at the the line between your rod tip and the leader. If your cadence is correct, the line will be almost straight. If there is sag, you need to move a bit faster. Then, use the angle of the line to give you a hint at the direction you want to drive the rod tip during the rest of the bc. If you subscribe to Paul's idea of an imaginary rear target, the goal of the set up is to have the line at that angle. (The ol' 180 degree thing.)
And, just really for kicks... after the parallel lift, and right before you begin to slowly rotate, throw a very slight up mend into the line. Wait for the rod tip to dip as the mend drops and immediately continue with the rest of the bc. (Although I don't suggest you add this wrinkle if you are being evaluated)... just try it and see what you think.
The above are just the ramblings of someone who has no grasp of how flycasting really works, or so I am told, so try these ideas at your own risk...