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Saltwater Fly Reels
Moderators: Sudesh Pursad, Morsie
Re: Saltwater Fly Reels
I mostly fish 20lbs too Ron, or to be more accurate 22lbs (10kgs). I suspect we're a dying breed though as most seem to be opting for straight through leaders from 40lbs to 200lbs, especially the GT anglers. A lot of fly fishers these days can't be bothered to learn how to connect a class tippet to a bite tippet.
Make your explanations as simple as possible, but no simpler. A Einstein.
Re: Saltwater Fly Reels
Peter,
Quite often drags are the same within one series reels or some sizes share the same drag. Of course there are reels where all size have individual drags.
When the drags are the same, the bigger the reel, the less drag as the moment that the drag puts out doesn’t change.
Sage 8010pro that I have, has drag adjustment compensation for some wear via allen key, which is nice and was useful - until there was no more to be had. Meaning the reel needed to be opened and and drag stack made a bit thicker to get the top end back. In general I like this reel a lot. One revolution drag and the dial is numbered. And I can set it to A or B for salmon fishing and E for salty stuff.
I know how to connect a class tippet to a bite tippet. I choose not to do it. It is because I don’t want to be tangled to a big tuna with a 10kg fuse. And the end game with them is much faster without having to worry about the tippet. That equals better condition releases, less fed up fishing buddies and less fatigue on me. I can understand the record chasing, but for example the length rules of bite and class tippet do not make much sense to me. I also just found out most of my SW fly rods that I use are also not IGFA compliant.
Ron,
I don’t know of any fly reel that could handle 50lb pull - there might be some small arbor ones that could make it when there is almost no backing left. But 50lb from any reasonable diameter, I don’t think so. You could only really use it pointing at the fish anyway. A fish sounding and you break the rod and/or cannot hold the rod unless the rod would have been designed to do that. Then it would be pretty much straight down right from the too of the handle.
Many reels seemingly robust may fail or start to fade quickly even when having to brute in bigger albies to save them at least to some degree from sharks. For example Behemoth, which is a great reel for its price did not cope in the long term (some tens of fish I’d say) the drag it was putting out in (not cranked to the max) Florida heat. It wasn’t alone, a reel several times more expensive developed ’nothing happens’ area in its low end drag - likely wear on the drag washers. I don’t know if the top end faded, quite likely thou as that was one revolution drag reel too.
Quite often drags are the same within one series reels or some sizes share the same drag. Of course there are reels where all size have individual drags.
When the drags are the same, the bigger the reel, the less drag as the moment that the drag puts out doesn’t change.
Sage 8010pro that I have, has drag adjustment compensation for some wear via allen key, which is nice and was useful - until there was no more to be had. Meaning the reel needed to be opened and and drag stack made a bit thicker to get the top end back. In general I like this reel a lot. One revolution drag and the dial is numbered. And I can set it to A or B for salmon fishing and E for salty stuff.
I know how to connect a class tippet to a bite tippet. I choose not to do it. It is because I don’t want to be tangled to a big tuna with a 10kg fuse. And the end game with them is much faster without having to worry about the tippet. That equals better condition releases, less fed up fishing buddies and less fatigue on me. I can understand the record chasing, but for example the length rules of bite and class tippet do not make much sense to me. I also just found out most of my SW fly rods that I use are also not IGFA compliant.
Ron,
I don’t know of any fly reel that could handle 50lb pull - there might be some small arbor ones that could make it when there is almost no backing left. But 50lb from any reasonable diameter, I don’t think so. You could only really use it pointing at the fish anyway. A fish sounding and you break the rod and/or cannot hold the rod unless the rod would have been designed to do that. Then it would be pretty much straight down right from the too of the handle.
Many reels seemingly robust may fail or start to fade quickly even when having to brute in bigger albies to save them at least to some degree from sharks. For example Behemoth, which is a great reel for its price did not cope in the long term (some tens of fish I’d say) the drag it was putting out in (not cranked to the max) Florida heat. It wasn’t alone, a reel several times more expensive developed ’nothing happens’ area in its low end drag - likely wear on the drag washers. I don’t know if the top end faded, quite likely thou as that was one revolution drag reel too.
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